TravelVoice Journal - Chiangmai

Chiangmai - Northern Thailand

by Trevor Sinclair

MANY VISITORS to Northern Thailand seem to fall in love with it. For some reason, this is particularly true of Chiangmai with it's small city atmosphere but its big city dining and entertainment alternatives. It probably also has something to do with the mountains surrounding the city, the Buddhist temples - both within the city and outside, and its easy access to the many wonders of the North: the smaller city of Chiangrai, posed north of Chiangmai and approaching the Burma border, the Golden Triangle, known throughout the world for its peculiar history, Mae Hong Sorn, Northwest of Chiangmai, and the many, many jungles, caves, waterfalls and orchid farms, to mention only a few.

For most people who have been to Chiangmai once, a certain lingering feeling of friendliness and ease among the local people has a tendency to lure them back a second time, and maybe a third and fourth. Of course, each time they return they see some changes and discover new adventures, and with each return visit they feel something deeper that underlies the changes they notice, a feeling that despite some changes Chiangmai is still the wonderful, peaceful city they remember.

Perhaps this journal will give the first-time visitor a better understanding of the area, and, perhaps some other return visitors will identify with what these people have to say.

A Trip of 8000 kms

I've travelled some 8000 kilometres because of my deep affection for Thailand and its friendly, caring people. My first full day in Thailand was spent mostly travelling to Chiangmai, and I must admit I was weary after nearly 12 hours in 3 different aircraft. Sleeping, with a gentle mountain breeze was certainly no effort.

I woke up and left my hotel looking forward to having breakfast in a little restaurant owned by Moo and Soda, two delightful ladies whose cooking is as excellent as their servings are generous. After banana pancakes and a glass of lemon juice. I made my way across 'Old Chiangmai', that part of the city surrounded by a moat and crumbling walls. It's a small area and I always enjoy walking through it.

Chiangmai was founded in 1291 A.D. by King Mengrai and was established as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom at that time. Various histories plot the founding of Chiangmai in various ways, but historically clear evidence shows that Chiangmai was the ultimate achievement in the career of Mengrai, in a long chain of city founding from northern Burma down to Chiangmai itself. Over a period of more than 50 years in the l3th century, Mengrai moved southward from southern China. first founding Chiang Toong in northern Burma, then founding Chiangrai in 1262 A.D.. and much later founding Chiangmai after a long war with the Mon Haripoonshal Kingdom at Lumpoon.

The conquest of Haripoonshai came at a time when that Kingdom was aligned with the Mon-hhorm Kingdom at Lopburi. It was achieved in 1291 A.D., and must be properly seen as part of the downfall of the Khorm Anghor Kingdom. The Tais, first at Chiangsaen and then Vientiane, had long been involved in repealing Khorm attempts at domination, and Mengrai's attack on Haripoolshai was the first time the Thais were known to have reversed the roles and became the attackers. At the time of Mengrai's successful conquest of Haripoonshal he was battling two peoples in the area, the Mons and the Lawa tribes who had traditionally inhabited the North long before the Mons or the Khorm arrived. Mengrai's conquest of Harlpoonshai was not an incidental event in the history of the North, nor was it accidental. With Tai domination of the Mon Buddhist Kingdom of Haripoonshai, Mengrai was able to build the city of his dreams, Chiangmai, and to establish the city as his capital for life. He had the skilled artisans and craftsmen of Haripoonshai brought to the site of Chiangmai to contribute to its building and its magnificence.

The city was built on an area that was nearly square, measuring 800 meters east to west and 790 meters north to south. A defensive moat was built around the city along with a defensive brick wall. Fortified gates were built and they were guarded, and within the city the capital was secure while without the fertile land was ready for farming. The city was built in a grid pattern with roads intersecting each other, east to west and north to south, and the building of temples began.

The first temple in Chiangmai was Wat Chiang Mun, located within the moat at the Northeast corner. It was founded by Mengrai himself soon after the founding of Chiangmai and it's where Mengrai spent his final years in residence before his death. This temple has two elegant wiharns in the Lanna style, with sparkling white walls, gilded windows in glass mosaic, and wood-carved lintels and eaves. Solid teak pillars were used to support the structures and temple guardian figures were cast in the beautiful Lanna black and gold lacquer work so famous to northern Thailand.

Wat Phra Singh was built on the western side of the city, inside the moat, in 1345 A.D., and this temple, like many others in Chiangmai, was built upon further over the centuries. The most attractive part of this temple, historically is a small wiharn in the back called the Lai Kham, where the Phra Singh Buddha rests. This is a golden Buddha displayed on a golden throne, with other images around it. The Phra Singh Buddha image has a history almost as interesting as that of the Emerald Buddha. It is said to have been cast In gold in the year 360 A.D., in Sri Lanka. Centuries later it ended up in Nakhon Si Thammarat after a shipwreck and in 1389 it became part of Wat Phra Singh in Chiangmai. In 1548 it was taken to Luang Prabang in Laos, then a part of the Lanna Kingdom, and then on to Ayutthaya in 1622. It was returned to its place at Wat Phra Singh in 1767.

A third historic temple that depicts the founding of Chiangmai is Wat Chedi Luang. This temple is in the south-central part of the city, inside the moat, and it was originally four small temples that were combined to form the temple complex. The chedi itself was first built in 1381. It measured 2282 feet in height and 144 feet in width at the base. Rows of elephant heads were sculpted along each side and porticoes were built into the top of the edifice. Wat Chedi Luang when built, was located 50 meters south of the centre of Chiangmai and this is where the original Chiangmai city pillar stood. Today the city pillar rests upon the grounds of Wat Chedi Luang itself. Today, Wat Chedi Luang is the main centre of Buddhist instruction in Chiangmai.

Among the many early temples of Chiangmai, there were those also outside the moat and the city gates. One of these was Wat Suan Dorg in the west. Built in 1383, it demonstrates the unique sculpture, wood work and glass mosaic work of the early Lanna Kingdom. Burmese Influence in Chiangmai temple design and architecture began in 1455 with the founding of Wat Chedi Jed Yord outside the city moat to the Northeast. In 1457, King Tilokarat of Lanna sent monks to the Mahabodhi temple In Pagan to make drawings and from these Wat Chedi Jed Yord was built. The Mahabodhi temple of Pagan, and also the original in India. is one of the most famous Buddhist temple constructions in Asia, and King Tiloharat had Wat Chedi Jed Yord built on this model to commemorate the 2, anniversary of the Buddha's death, and for the preparation of the Eighth World Buddhist Meeting held in Chiangmai in the year 1477.

Chiangmai, became not only the centre of the Lanna Kingdom, but also the centre of Buddhism in northern Thailand. At the height of its power, Lanna, with Chiangmai at the centre, extended as far north as Chiang Toong in the Shan State of Burma, as far east as Luang Pradbang and Vientiane in Laos, as far south as Khampaenpphetnear Sukhothai, and as far west as Mae Hong Sorn. Mengrai's dream City eventually attracted the power of Burma which occupied Chiangmai for nearly 300 years; and ultimately Chiangmai and Lanna were incorporated into Thailand at the end of the 19th century.

I walked to Chang Puak Gate, one of the four gates to the old city. and caught a pick-up truck converted into a sort of bus: as I clambered in the back, bumping my head as I alighted, I thought to myself “what a different way to get around” and far more personal than the big city buses and trains I’d left behind only 2 days earlier. I shared my ride with others whom I didn't know, but nodded too, to go up the steep winding mountainside road leading to Wat Doi Suthep. This is a Buddhist temple which so much epitomises all that is wonderful about Thailand. It overlooks the city of Chiangmai, perched out from the mountain, and from the city itself on a sunny day it shines like a dome made of pure gold.

When we arrived at Doi Suthep, I wasn't in much of a hurry. I wanted to enjoy myself, take it slow and savour the day. Besides, the ascent to the temple leads up many steps and I was already hot. I wandered around a market where they sell all kinds of hill tribe artefacts and I bought a few souvenirs for friends back home. Then I climbed to Wat Doi Suthep.

Once inside the Wat, I was taken by its serenity and found myself, somewhat self-consciously, saying a silent prayer, reaching the peace within…how grateful I was to be in Paradise.

Outside the temple, on the grassy slopes overlooking the city. I found myself a shaded stone seat, and glancing at the base of the tree I was under I noticed beautiful yellow orchids dancing in the breeze. I felt a splendid contentment glowing within me. I felt I was at peace with the world. In a nearby tree I spotted a red-whiskered bulbul, I’d seen them before, but usually in cane cages at the markets in Bangkok. This one was perched quietly on a branch, without fear. To my one side was a sculptured elephant. Soon, a group of Thai schoolboys approached the elephant and excitedly sat astride on its back. Their teacher, whose English was excellent, though I still can’t pronounce her name, asked me to take their photo. Then we shared the strawberries and bananas I had brought up with me. The whole time, the air was filled with the sonorous, subtle drumming of temple bells. I wrote my first postcards of the day: ''Arrived…luggage not lost...rested…and everyone smiles here, as always... "

It was late afternoon when I got back to Chiangmai. I looked around some shops, drank green tea, and browsed through the shelves in a bookstore. All too soon the sun was setting, so I went back to my hotel. I Showered and changed. Then, after a delicious traditional mountain-Thai meal, I was in a celebratory mood. Intent on getting myself one or two gin & tonics, maybe three but I usually stop counting after two. (By the way, never even think of trying the local Thai whiskey – “Mekong”, I’m sure it’s used to fuel the garden torches). I was around the area of Tha Phae Gate along the other side of the moat and I entered a bar - there are plenty to choose from.

Overall I like Chiangmai, but I noticed some changes that are happening in Thailand, which at least for me are not so good. The changes I saw were in the bars and restaurants. I like Thai music when I come to Thailand but the bars seem to be playing more and more western music, which I listen to all the time at home. I also like to get away from TV and video (except for my daily fix of CNN International and BBC World), but they seem to be in all the smaller restaurants and bars. I just hope Chiangmai doesn't become too western. I don't understand why it is becoming western at all. Thailand has such a great culture, I'd hate to see it change too much.

I loved the outdoor restaurants and just sitting around in the evening talking to people and having a good time. I've never seen such nice, gentle people. Especially where they were working. In the North they are patient, polite and smiling but never interfering with your dinner or your drinks. I found that it only took a slight indication from me for them to open up and actually sit down and talk. I'm talking about waiters and waitresses in restaurants. It was so much fun, and their fascination for the way I live was real too.

Anyway, after I left I started feeling like I had missed so much and I wondered why I had passed up the opportunity to see so many things I'd heard about. So next trip I’ve decided to come back and stay in Chiangmai at a cheap guest house. I want to spend my time going to the places I missed the first time. Chiangrai, the Golden Triangle, Chiangdao and Mae Hong Son, and a 5 day trek. That's something I've never done before and to tell you the truth, I'm a little hesitant because I can't see myself doing all that rigorous trekking for 5 days. I decided to do as much as possible next time and I'm going to do my best to not laze out. I don't want to go home feeling again like I didn't take advantage of the opportunities, but I look at this trip, with all its wondrous experiences, as an appetiser for the main course that will be my next trip to Northern Thailand.

Trevor Sinclair
December 1999

Oh Savannah

Trevor Sinclair
June 2003

By Trevor Sinclair

My oh so patient partner and I arrived in Savannah after an extremely tedious drive from Atlanta. Trucks, eighteen-wheelers, trucks, trucks and more trucks. If I’d known more I would have flown. With ticket prices under $50 it’s gotta be worth it. The drive along the Interstate is very lush green and somewhat pretty, but it’s not as though there’s anywhere to stop, apart from finding the most wonderful fresh fruit in the small town of Dudley…somewhere off the freeway past Macon.

Chiangmai - Northern Thailand

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