Vancouver Island – from Beers to Bears!
by Trevor Sinclair
Vancouver Island has always held a treasure trove of tourist attractions, but over the past year or so, the island off Canada's west coast has added a few new tricks to lure vacationers. They range from a Victoria-based day tour that pays tribute to microbreweries to a new rail trip that is being billed as an Orient Express experience to guided walks along the island's famous Pacific Ocean shores and grizzly bear viewing in Knight Inlet.
A day-long tour through Victoria's microbreweries and brewpubs is lots of fun, and educational too, but the new Victoria's Ale Trail package takes on more significance as the tour unfolds and the beery traditions of the city become apparent. I stayed at Spinnakers Brew Pub right on the waterfront with fantastic views back to the capital of British Columbia. Victoria can lay legitimate claim to having led the charge to microbrewed beer in North America, a widely-welcomed variation on the mass-produced brew.
Victoria's brewmasters celebrate their trailblazing ventures into the world of microbrews with stories of challenging the established beer interests in the early 1980s. And then they pour samples of their labours, at woody brewpubs like Spinnakers, Swans, Hugo's and the Harbour Canoe Club, and the more antiseptic, production-oriented microbreweries such as the Lighthouse Brewery and Vancouver Island Brewery.
The beers cover all the traditional ale and lager bases and break the limits of convention with creations such as an oatmeal stout, a very powerful "doppelbock" ale and a barley wine ale, to name a few. A two-day version of the Ale Trail is now being conducted by First Island Tours of Victoria, and includes one night's accommodation, some meals, appetizers and transportation to the tours, for CAD$245 per person, double. As of June, the Ale Trail is available only as a five-hour, one-day tour, for CAD$119. For more information call 1-250 658 5367.
It was nothing like the Orient Express when it entered service in mid-June last year, but the operators of the new Wilderness Railway Company have big plans for their new operation. The train operates three trips a day to the top of the Malahat Mountain, a scenic region near Victoria. The 11-car train has a capacity of 800 passengers for each trip, and you have the choice of riding 1930s-vintage open-window coaches, 1950s-vintage air-conditioned cars or fully-restored first-class parlour cars, with viewing platforms, from 1928. They range in price from CAD$29 to CAD$79, depending on the level of luxury chosen.
The Pacific Wilderness Railway is the brainchild of American entrepreneur Ross Rowland, the former vice-chairman of Amtrak. It is his ambition to add Vancouver Island to the growing variety of railtour vacations offered around the world, and to model his service on the famous Orient Express. Diesel electric locomotives were used initially, but replaced by the more romantic steam engines in this season. A daily service to Nanaimo return is planned for 2002. Call 1-250-381-8600 for more information.
A new tour operator based in Campbell River (265km north of Victoria or a four hour drive) is offering visitors the chance to view the Grizzly Bears of Knight Inlet in a new day trip tour package. The tours depart from Campbell River where guests are taken from the mainland by Zodiac to Telegraph Cove and on to Knight Inlet. Viewing of the Grizzly Bears takes place from either the Zodiac or a camouflaged vehicle which ensures passenger safety.
This unobtrusive measure also ensures the elusive grizzlies are minimally disturbed. Grizzly Bear tours operate from May to 25 October, 2001 and depart daily at 6.00am from Telegraph Cove via a Zodiac. For further information on these tours contact Tide Rip Tours on call 1-250-339-5320 or visit their web site at www.tiderip.com
 On the west coast of Vancouver Island, the beaches and shorelines are well-known for their scenic beauty, especially on the popular stretch between Ucluelet and Tofino. Tofino is a relaxed, casual place completely given to unwinding and getting back to nature.
It is an intriguing mix of wide sandy beaches and old growth forests, fishing boats and whale-watching zodiacs, loggers and surfers, casual eateries and eclectic fine dining. The region is a year-round destination where you can witness the drama of a winter storm, bask in the warmth of a summer day, or explore nature's magic in a tidal pool. Accommodation in Tofino is wide and varied, and simply perfect for any budget.
I chose apartment style accommodation at Fred Tibbs, before moving on to the more luxurious Wickinninish Inn.Located on Vancouver Island's magnificently rugged west coast, the Wickaninnish Inn is minutes from the picturesque township of Tofino. The Inn is situated on a rocky promontory at the westernmost point of Chesterman Beach, at the gateway to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and the renowned beauty of Clayoquot Sound.
Surrounded by the ocean on three sides with an old growth forest as a backdrop, the Wickaninnish Inn offers panoramic views of the open Pacific, nearby islands and the natural sweep of spectacular Chesterman Beach. The artistic elements contributed by a variety of artists, artisans and master carver, Henry Nolla, combine art, culture and nature together throughout the Inn.
Each one of the spacious rooms provides magnificent ocean views, fireplaces, deep soaker bathtubs and private balconies. The addition of the Ancient Cedars Spa has elevated the stay at the Wickaninnish Inn to new heights of relaxation. The final ingredients completing the experience will be found at the Pointe Restaurant, which offers ocean front dining and showcases some fabulous cuisine in a perfect setting.
The former chief naturalist at Pacific Rim National Park is running interpretative walking tours on the paths that run above the rugged shores near Ucluelet. Bill McIntyre operates Long Beach Nature Tours and offers a variety of packaged guiding services that include his ample expertise in all the flora and fauna in that area. McIntyre uses the very good trails and boardwalks on the bluffs above the beaches to point out highlights, in a walking tour that typically lasts two to three hours.
During the winter "storm season," he knows all the best places to see the waves make their most spectacular impact on the rocky parts of the shore. And his long experience in the area allows him to quickly spot elusive creatures such as offshore whales, sea lions and eagles. A two-hour group tour of five people costs CAD$100, or CAD$20 per person. A full-day group tour, including a gourmet box lunch, is CAD$450,or CAD$90 pr. person. For more information call 1-250-72-6-7099 For free brochures, maps and information on Canada, contact Canada Travel Information on tel: (02) 9954 3377. The Canadian Tourism Commission's web site can be located at www.canada.trav.net.
Trevor Sinclair
July 2001
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